One of Scotland’s finest ever climbers has been given the Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture.



The annual award, set up in 2008 by the Highland Mountain Culture Association Ltd, organisers of the Fort William Mountain Festival, and sponsored by Rio Tinto Alcan, celebrates the achievements and accomplishments of one inspiring individual and their outstanding contributions to Scotland’s mountains, encompassing sport, theatre, art, photography, film and literature.

Though a relative unsung hero of Scottish and UK mountaineering Jimmy Marshall has been inextricably linked to the development of cutting edge climbing in Scotland since the 1950’s and 60’s.

In one legendary week on Ben Nevis in 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith transformed the shape of Scottish winter mountaineering, advancing it a full ten years. On consecutive days the two men climbed six first winter ascents, including the mini Alpine-route Orion Face Direct (V, 5), while also making the second and much quicker ascent of Point Five Gully (V, 5) for good measure - in seven hours as opposed to more than 40 hours when previously climbed.

The fact they achieved all this using rudimentary ice-climbing gear and by cutting steps up the snow and ice appears, from the remove of the 21st century, to be almost unbelievable. This was a feat of fitness, skill and commitment that some would argue has never been bettered; and the finest achievement in ice climbing using the step cutting technique.

Marshall was just as skilled an operator on rock and his futuristic climbs were an inspiration to others to push the standards of the day. He wanted to prove that Scottish climbers were as good as, if not better than, any in the world. To prove his point he not only began mentoring and tutoring the new wave of young guns but he also became a prime mover behind the post-war resurgence of the largely middle-class Scottish Mountaineering Club, leading by example and filling it with his young dynamic apprentices.

Marshall is also a prolific writer on climbing issues and has been a regular contributor to the SMC (Scottish Mountaineering Club) Journal for many years. His vast knowledge of climbing has both educated inspired thousands of climbers through his writing.

Mike Pescod, Chairman of the Highland Mountain Culture Association, organisers of the Fort William Mountain Festival, said: “Mountains have always been inspiring. To some people the draw of the mountains is so strong that they devote their entire life to them and make a massive contribution to the culture surrounding them in doing so.

“Recognition of their talent and commitment is rarely sought or given and this award is one opportunity to do so. We feel that this award will not only celebrate their achievements and contributions but will also represent the recognition of their peers. Jimmy Marshall not only led the way in what can be achieved in climbing in the mountains but he inspired countless other people to get out and enjoy the Scottish hills while never looking for recognition of his unique talents.”

Jimmy Marshall will be presented with his award on Sunday February 14 at Nevis Centre, Fort William, after the showing of a short film that includes still photographic highlights of his lifetime achievements and testimonials from his peers and friends. This will form part of a very special mountain festival evening to celebrate Jimmy Marshall. Dave Macleod and Andy Turner will present their own experiences of the six gruelling climbs (February 2010) with film clips of the ascents, comparing the 21st Century experience of climbing the same routes using state of the art equipment and techniques with Jimmy’s recollections of the first ascents using one ice axe and cutting holes in the ice for hands and feet.

For full details of the Fort William Mountain Festival programme and to book tickets go to: www.mountainfestival.co.uk