It’s a good feeling to sit on the top of Dale Head, feet dangling mid-air, contemplating the massive glacial valley below, carved out as snow and rock ground a path towards Skiddaw.
This summit can be tackled from the west, the east and the south, but a minor path tackles it head on, with an optional scramble thrown in to boot. You certainly wouldn’t guess it as you nervously peer over the edge and in truth the path jibs out at the last minute, running with tail between legs to the easier north-east ridge. It still beats the accepted drag up from Honister though.
The day was set hazy and subdued as I made my way along a peaceful Newlands Valley, which only served to emphasise the contrasting and ominous nature of Bull Crag high on my left. This is one among an almost continuous procession of crags that extend along the eastern wall of the valley. Further on, Castle Nook cautiously sticks a big toe out, its rocky architecture tempered somewhat by a softening cover of trees.
At the head of the valley the scramble can be seen starting from the lowest buttresses above the scree slopes of Dale Head Crags, shown on some maps as Great Gable. From this position it does bear a resemblance to that mountain. Look around and you’ll notice you’re slowly being sucked into the vast arena of crags that head the valley, with the magnificent Eel Crags occupying the high ground across from the waterfall that rushes from Dale Head Tarn.
It’s a very pleasant grassy path that leads right of the crags. After crossing the tree-clad Far Tongue Gill you can either continue up the zigzags, or make your own way across to the lower of the buttresses, which harbour a fantastic view of the U-shaped valley down to Skiddaw, and an invisible stream that gurgles beneath boulders at your feet. Now the rocky panorama is at its greatest with the view across to Eel Crags immense. To be honest the scramble up these north-facing rocks is not the fomest. They are somewhat greasy and vegetated, but the rocky nature of the scenery is awe-inspiring, and with the odd stir of adrenaline thrown in, it at least makes a memorable climb of Dale Head, where you can sit with a smug, self-satisfied grin on you face.
I followed the narrowing ridge to Hindscarth, and hesitated. If I’d arrived here a little earlier I’m sure I would have descended direct to Low Snab, seduced by the promise of a large slice of cake and a coffee for a snip. But, not being a suicidal fell runner, I knew I’d be too late, so helped myself to a slice of Robinson instead. Both Hindscarth and Robinson drop almost identical twin ridges into Newlands. Both are narrow enough to provide a thrill, and both have a minor rocky step to test the weary. Take your pick – there’s not much in it – unless that farm shop’s open.
Distance: 9 miles/14km Ascent: 3280ft/1000m Time: 6-7 hours Start/finish: Little Town (GR: NY 231193) Maps: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL4 (The English Lakes – North Western area); OS 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 90 (Penrith & Keswick, Ambleside); Harvey Maps 1:25,000 Superwalker, Lakeland West Information: Keswick TIC, 017687 72645 Travel: buses to Keswick; Traveline: 0871 200 22 33, www.traveline.info
Technical Spec
Follow road NE to stile. Track S past Castle Nook. Cross Newlands Beck on stepping stones at confluence with Near Tongue Gill. Path climbing SSW to the zigzags. Traverse across to foot of crags. Climb 30m of grassy rake. Head right along grassy shelf. Climb rocks to slab. Traverse right to easier ground. Scramble over mix of rock and easier ground near a sharp drop on left when possible. Climb to summit of Dale Head. WNW along Littledale Edge to Robinson, detouring to Hindscarth on way. Descend NE to High Snab. Return NE then E along tracks.