Words & Photos Fiona Barltrop

December 03 2009

For a small, compact group of hills the Howgill Fells pose a certain amount of cartographic confusion, being part of Cumbria but not part of the Lake District, as well as crossing into the Yorkshire Dales National Park, while not being part of Yorkshire!

It must come as something of a surprise for many a visitor (especially those from overseas) to learn on arrival in Sedbergh that they are in Cumbria and at the same time in the Dales National Park. In fact, if you look at the Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 map (somewhat frustratingly you need three of the 1:50,000s to cover the Howgills) you’ll see that it’s only the southern half of the group that’s included within the National Park; the northern hills lie outside.

Wainwright described the Howgills as looking like a herd of sleeping elephants, though the ‘whale-backed’ description Kipling applied to the South Downs comes more readily to my mind. These are big, rolling grassy hills ideal for striding out on. No one walk can do them justice, though that to Cautley Spout, England’s highest waterfall above ground, must be the most popular. A good circuit can be completed by continuing to The Calf (676m) – the Howgills’ highest point – then following the splendid ridge down via Arant Haw to Winder and back along the Rawthey valley.

Having done that walk a couple of times, I decided on a northern approach for my next visit, setting off from Bowderdale and following the long ridge via West Fell south to The Calf. Though the cloud cover was widespread that day, fortunately it was never low enough to conceal the tops – yet for what turned out to be such a splendid walk, I could not but help rue the lack of blue sky.

From The Calf I headed north-west along the ridge via Wind Scarth (with a brief diversion to Fell Head), then down to Blakethwaite Bottom and back up to Uldale Head – where I encountered the only other person that day, and he an evening fell runner. It’s a slightly taxing little climb at that stage of the walk but the ridge-top route back north seems far preferable to that along the valley.

The on-off drizzle of the day now developed into a downpour as I followed quiet lanes and paths on the northern edge of the Howgills back to the start. In a country where we are spoilt for choice when it comes to guide books, it had been refreshing and exhilarating to explore new terrain without any sort of guidance. All you need for these hills are a good map, legs that relish the miles and an enjoyment of solitude.

Distance: 23km/14 miles Ascent: 2854ft/870m Time: 7-8 hours Start/finish: Bowderdale (GR: NY 679046) Map: OS 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL19 (Howgill Fells & Upper Eden Valley) Information: Kirkby Stephen, 017683 71199; www.golakes.co.uk Travel: none to start. Nearest bus stop at Ravenstonedale (no 564 from Kirkby Stephen); nearest train station: Kirkby Stephen

Technical Spec
From Bowderdale follow 
ridge-top route S via West Fell & Hazelgill Knott to The Calf (10-minute diversion S to Calders affords fine views). Head NW along ridge via White Fell Head & Breaks Head, NE to Wind Scarth and continue N to Docker Knott. Descend to Blakethwaite Bottom and up other side to Uldale Head. N along ridge via Rispa Pike. Long gradual descent, joining farm track further down which leads to Ellergill. Return to start along minor roads and footpaths via Cotegill etc.