Words & Photos Andy Stothert

December 03 2009

I can’t quite fathom whether it’s me who’s the misfit or Longsleddale. Or maybe it’s the both of us. It is widely acknowledged that the Lake District is the walking capital of the world, and is swarming with walkers to such an extent that, at times, and in certain places, the goose has been well and truly burnt to a cinder.

Just after the eggs had been kicked to a pulp by the ramblers. But then you arrive in Longsleddale and the essence (illusion?) of an unspoilt upland Lakeland landscape can be seen, and more importantly, felt through the souls of y’r boots. But why has Longsleddale been bypassed by the masses, when it is the nearest and easiest to access valley in the Lake District? Why, when Great Langdale is swarming with the trendy set, are the hidden folds of lovely Longsleddale deserted? Am I missing something here, because I don’t think Longsleddale is? Well what the hell, this is something to ponder merrily upon while wandering about in the wastes to Harrop Pike, or striding along the top of Kentmere Pike. If there is a problem with Longdsleddale, and this route which bags every fell to be seen, it is that the valley itself, and the limitless joy of the River Sprint which surges through it, can only be admired from afar and above. So at some time in y’r miserable peak bagging existence stroll up Longlsleddale with the Sprint and have a picnic in the ruins of Wren Gill Quarry. But not now, for right next to the tiny parking area at Sadgill there is direct access to the fells, and from there the steep sides of an interesting pudding called Sleddale Fell can be tackled. If you’re Wainwright-bagging he called it Grey Crag, and half a mile beyond is Harrop Pike, which though two feet lower than Grey Crag, feels like the top of the hill. From there the quaking bogs of an area called Greycrag Tarn must be crossed, before Tarn Crag is ticked off, and then a trembling descent to the pass-with-no-name between Longsleddale and Mosedale. Branstree is completely dry, but hey, no hill is perfect, then after a quick dunking at Gatescarth Pass, Harter Fell passes by in a blur of scenic bliss. Yes, I know Harter Fell is a fraudster, but what a view, and what a magnificent sight from Mardale. There is a risk of human contamination on Harter Fell, as it can be approached from so many different directions, but the danger soon passes as you stride purposefully on over the many acres of Kentmere Pike. The diversion to Goat Scar is worthwhile (one of my Top Ten Ashes Scattering spots), and finally the rough rocky bounds of Shipman Knotts add a bit of variety to the day just before it finishes back in Longsleddale.

Distance: 11 miles/18km Ascent: 3495ft/1065m Time: 8-10 hours Start/finish: Road end at Sadgill (GR: NY 484057) Maps: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL7 (The English Lakes – South Eastern area); Harvey 1:25,000 Superwalker, Lakeland East; OS 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 90 (Penrith & Keswick); BMC 1:40,000 British Mountain Maps, Lake District Information: Kendal TIC, 01539 725758

Technical Spec
From Sadgill immediately ascend NE on intermittent path to Great Howe, Grey Crag, and Harrop Pike. Follow fence SW then NW to Tarn Crag, descend NW to col, then ascend NW to Branstree. Descend SW to Gatescarth Pass, follow path up to Harter Fell. Follow path and fence/wall SE to Kentmere Pike then Goat Scar, S over Shipman Knotts, then track back to Sadgill.