Words & Photos Vivienne Crow

December 01 2010

I’d had my eye on Dowthwaitehead for a while, having spotted it from the top of nearby Gowbarrow some years ago. So, when my partner suggested a trip to Ullswater, I had just the route in mind…

Dowthwaitehead didn’t disappoint. Setting off through verdant fields with fells on either side, we had only a few rare-breed sheep for company; not a soul in sight, not even when we reached the farm buildings at the head of the valley. It was eerie almost. Apart from the occasional bleating of the sheep, all I could hear was that squelching sound underfoot that I’ve come to associate with the low-lying fells around Matterdale. The ground became considerably drier as we gained height, and we were making good time as we climbed easily on the short turf. Then, all of a sudden, we were literally stopped in our tracks: as we hit the ridge wall, we were met by the perfect symmetry of the pyramid-like Catstye Cam beyond Nick Head on the other side of Glencoyne. Behind that, of course, was Helvellyn. All that rock came as quite a shock after the monotony of the grassy slopes that had gone before.

We headed north-west now to reach the top of Birkett Fell. I was surprised to find a named cairn here, but later discovered this one commemorates Ulverston-born Lord William Norman Birkett, a prominent liberal barrister and MP in the 20th century. At the height of his career, he was a judge at the Nuremberg Trials, but he’s remembered locally for having helped defeat Manchester Corporation’s plans to turn Ullswater into a reservoir.

Following faint trails through the grass, little more than sheep-trods at times, we climbed Hart Side and Green Side before encountering our first humans on Stybarrow Dodd. We were now on the well-walked path that connects Helvellyn with the Dodds and Clough Head, a lovely stretch of ridge with fantastic views – and understandably busy. After the solitude of the fells above Dowthwaitehead, we were glad to leave the main path near Calfhow Pike. We now followed one of the Lake District’s many Mosedale Becks, this one carving out a valley that sees few walkers. Only a fence and a couple of sheepfolds reminded us that humans aren’t unknown in these parts.

Crossing damp ground along the way, we eventually reached the Old Coach Road, which forms an off-road section of the popular C2C cycle route. A little over two miles of good track walking then took us back to High Row.

Distance: 10 miles/16km Ascent: 2330ft/710m Time: 5-6 hours Start/finish: High Row (GR: NY 380219) Maps: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheets OL5 (English Lakes – North Eastern area) & OL4 (English Lakes - North Western area); Harveys 1:40,000 British Mountain Map, Lake District Information: Ullswater TIC, Glenridding, 017684 82414 Travel: The 208 bus stops in Dockray

Technical Spec
Walk S along road. Bear L and, at cottages, go through gate straight ahead. Follow wall on R and then turn R through fields for about 0.75 miles. Turn L at farm, R at fork. Go through gate on R after bridge. Climb beside wall for 200 yards, then follow path R. After k-gate, climb path beside beck. Cross stile and turn R. At wall’s highest point, turn L to Birkett Fell cairn. Continue W, swinging WNW, to Hart Side. Head SW to climb Green Side. From most westerly cairn, join grassy track (WNW, veering NW) to Stybarrow Dodd. Head NNW from summit, dropping to clear path. Bear R at fork and climb Great Dodd. From summit cairn, descend W and keep to R of Calfhow Pike. Turn R at fence, and follow Mosedale Beck downstream. Turn R along track.