Words & Photos Andy Stothert

December 03 2009

One glorious late spring morning I was bound for Buttermere with butterflies in the belly and that soaring in the soul you get when you just know that this is going to be one of those special days which will live with you for your remainder.

I had Fleetwith Pike floating about in my thought puddle as the hill of the day, but as I made a dash for it through the Newlands Valley I made the usual mistake of glimpsing up at the encircling heights. It’s my own fault, because I’ve always found travelling through the Newlands Valley is an impossible mission. The lumpy outlines of Hindscarth and Robinson stopped me in my tracks, the boots found their own way on, a bag appeared on my back, and there I was, shambling off towards Robinson instead of ambling around Buttermere towards Fleetwith Pike. This is probably why I prefer the buses around the Lake District rather than driving, as once I’ve stumped up the cash for a ride to Buttermere then that natural northern need for value for money ensures safe arrival at my planned destination.

The Newlands Round has so many options and alternatives that I hadn’t really got a clue about where I would eventually be, but in the end did what is probably the most predictable thing in the area. The first dilemma concerns Robinson and Hindscarth: which one do you leave out, as they both have appallingly appealing north ridges, and you feel guilty whichever way you do it. I went with Robinson, as a form of self flagellation; purifying the soul from those lascivious thoughts of Hindscarth. From Robinson to Dale Head is like walking in the air along Littledale and Hindscarth Edges, with that minute Striding Edge encountered as Dale Head is topped. And then, when you’re standing on Dale Head, you know, for sure, that you’ve come up the wrong way – as you spot that lovely winding route up through the old mines under Gable Crag, and wonder about so many things. What you also see is the track from Dale Head Tarn heading straight down the Newlands Valley, and know, for sure, that if you had a pure heart, that would be the only true course down. But you haven’t – well I haven’t, for I charged off down to the tarn and immediately stomped off onto High Spy and then followed the rim of the crags overlooking Newlands, thrilled to be here, and feeling really alive. All too soon the tranquillity of Little Town brings a smile to your face, but you know that temptation, and that mad rush of blood which the sight of a hill brings to the fore, has once more won the day over purity of line and thought. But one day…

Distance: 12 miles/19km Ascent: 3970ft/1210m Time: 6-8 hours Start/finish: Car park next to Chapel Bridge (GR: NY 233195) Maps: OS 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 90 (Penrith and Keswick); Harvey 1:25,000 Superwalker, Lakeland West; BMC 1:40,000 British Mountain Map, Lake District Information: Keswick TIC, 01768 772645 or see www.golakes.co.uk. Travel: only public transport option is Keswick Launch to Hawes End then walk to start, www.keswick-launch.co.uk

Technical Spec
Cross bridge and follow lane then track SW past church through Low High Snab farm then sharp right with fence uphill NW onto High Snab Bank. Ascend SW onto Robinson, S then E along Littledale and Hindscarth Edges via Hindscarth summit onto Dale Head. Take path NE then SE down to tarn then ascend N to High Spy and follow intermittent path on W rim of Maiden Moor. Descend to Hause Gate then ascend N to Cat Bells, Descend at Hawes End and follow lane then track S to start.