Words & Photos Paul Richardson

January 01 2010

The Old Man of Coniston offers manifold rewards in a comparatively short walk: there are sea views to the west, the Langdales and Scafell range to the north, and a side-on view of the Howgill Fells away to the east that gives them a folded, almost crumpled-up appearance.

Combine all this with a couple of corrie lakes and you’ve got the makings of an excellent day in the hills.

I set out from Torver just two days after some very heavy rainfall. Torver Beck was a torrent, but I was grateful that the path was firm enough.

As I made my way up towards Goat’s Water, the clear skies gave me an excuse to stop now and again for some identification of distant peaks, but then a dark grey snow cloud crept over the Old Man ridge. The resulting flurry was a sudden reminder that winter was well and truly on its way and I realised how bitterly cold the breeze had become.

Up to my left I could see walkers on the alternative path to the summit, heading across the ridge from Brown Pike to Buck Pike. For a moment I questioned my route choice, but any nagging doubts disappeared as I reached Goat’s Water, where I took full advantage of the shelter offered by the slopes enclosing the lake and snuggled down to enjoy a hot drink and a bite to eat. I’m a real sucker for corrie lakes; I enjoy visualising the glaciers that created them and gave the Lake District its distinctive U-shaped valleys.

After a few minutes the cold air managed to seep through all my layers of clothing and push me on my way past the lake and up the steep and icy ascent to Goat’s Hawse. From here the route heads steadily uphill eastwards, but first I glanced to the north-west, and was rewarded with a magnificent view across to Scafell Pike – more than worth a bit of cold air!

Coniston’s summit was busy; everyone seemed to be having their photograph taken on the summit cairn at the same time. The surrounding slopes didn’t appear to have enough walkers on them to account for so many people at the top – I was tempted to ask them if they all came up together. Instead I continued on the path down to Low Water.

The sun was low in the sky by the time I made my descent and despite the cold, deep autumnal colours created a sense of warmth at odds with the layer of ice that covered any surface water.

As the sun sank ever lower I managed to win the race, getting back to Torver just before the glowing orb dropped below the horizon.

Distance: 9 miles/15km Ascent: 2624ft/800m Time: 6-7 hours Start/finish: Torver (GR: SD 284942) Map: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer Sheet OL6 (The English Lakes – South Western area); Harvey 1:25,000 Superwalker (Lakeland South West) Information: Coniston TIC, 01539 441 533 Travel: Blueworks Private Hire runs X12 bus between Coniston and Torver (Traveline: 0871 200 22 33, www.traveline.org.uk)

Technical Spec
From Torver take path to rear of Wilson’s Arms pub and follow walled tracks to Scarr Head. Go past Scarr Head on left, past climbing hut and continue on the track skirting to the right of the disused quarry. Keep on track to Goat’s Water, then steep ascent to Goat’s Hawse. Follow path to Coniston summit then veer N on descent to Low Water. E past old slate works, and S when track splits. At car parking area take track W until it meets up with path to the N of disused quarry. Return to Torver on the same track as the outward route.