Words & Photos Martin Salter-Smith

December 01 2010

High in upper Eskdale rises the rocky summit of Pen, forever in the shadow of Scafell Pike, bound to its flanks like some unfortunate and less robust Siamese twin. Yet in certain weather conditions, when the tops are scarved in cloud, Pen comes into its own.

The mist swirls behind its rocky tooth, and it seems detached from its parent fell. Then, when the tallest peaks are swathed in grey, it towers in sharp relief against a pale and mysterious background.

We walked up Eskdale on a day of cloud that made the higher ridges unattractive. From the Cistercian vaccary of Brotherilkeld we took the zigzags of the peat road and followed the wild valley that leads over the shoulder to Samson’s Stones where the Great Moss and the uppermost glen of the Esk reveal themselves. This area is criss-crossed by the grassed-over walls of the Furness Abbey sheepwalks. The land was acquired by the Abbey to link its holdings in Furness with those in Borrowdale.

We ate our lunch by Samson’s Stones, as Coleridge may have done in 1802 when he passed this way after descending Broad Stand. The glen is quieter now – fewer shepherds, no miners or quarrymen, and no packhorses jingling past, the jaggers’ faces grim against the bitter miles to come.

Days of rain had left the Esk almost uncrossable, so we kept to the western side of the stream. The Cam Spout waterfall hurled white thunder down its rocky cleft, and sheep scattered before us among the drumlins as we skirted the intimidating sweep of Esk Buttress.

Our route climbed up grass slopes to enter Little Narrowcove, a comparatively secret route to the Scafells. Under the great rocks of Ill Crag we climbed until, below the final cloud-blanketed scree slopes which stretched uninvitingly to the main summit path, we broke off left. A neck of land swept us on a mixture of untracked grass and firm rocks to the final cone of Pen. A few more feet of rock and we were by the cairn. Behind us, the highest tops remained invisible in the mist, but ahead and below, the expanse of Upper Eskdale stretched out with the lazy loops of the river coiling down the wide strath.

A visit to this fine summit will not disappoint. You are unlikely to find yourself sharing this lovely place with others. For the energetic, there are some fairly hard scrambling routes on Thor’s Buttress. But for most, the long lonely walk up from Brotherilkeld, and the return by the Esk Gorge and the charming old packhorse bridge at Throstle Garth is challenge enough.

Distance: 10 miles/16km Ascent: 2500ft/760m Time: 5-6 hours Start/finish: Parking space at bottom of Hardknott Pass (above cattle grid) (GR: NY 213012) Maps: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL6 (English Lakes – South Western area); Harvey Maps 1:40,000 British Map, Lake District Information: Egremont TIC, 01946 820693 Travel: Train to Ravenglass (Northern Rail); Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway to Dalegarth and walk along Esk past Doctor’s Bridge (adds 5km)

Technical Spec
Walk down road and turn right along access track to Brotherilkeld. Left over footbridge to Taw House Farm. Turn right and follow footpath past Scale Gill Falls. Left up Cowcove zigzags and follow path to Samson’s Stones. Keep on W side of Esk below Cam Spout Crag and Dow Crag. Left up Little Narrowcove until possible to turn left and reach summit of Pen. Re-descend Little Narrowcove, cross Esk and Great Moss to Scar Lathing. Follow E side of Esk down gorge and over Throstle Garth (Lingcove) Bridge and so return to Brotherilkeld and start.