Words & Photos Fiona Barltrop

December 03 2009

“Watendlath is delightful and its qualities unique… a tiny cluster of white cottages and stone barns set at odd angles without pattern, a tarn, a stream and a bridge, all deeply inured amongst surrounding fells and hidden from outside gaze: here are all the attributes of a perfect picture, a scene to enrapture artist and photographers.”

Wainwright sums up the charms of Watendlath beautifully.

Enrapturing indeed, especially on arriving for the first time, as was the case for me earlier this year.

Like every good tourist I’d turned off the Borrowdale road to visit and photograph Ashness Bridge – as ubiquitous an image as any, turning up in calendars, tea-towels and so on – and had continued slowly on up the narrow road, stopping once more at “Surprise View”, to this secluded and picturesque National Trust owned hamlet, complete with packhorse bridge and tarn. Considering the fine sunny weather, and knowing how busy the likes of nearby Seathwaite get, Watendlath was unexpectedly, but very pleasantly, quiet, with just a handful of people sitting outside at the café. Situated high up in a hanging valley between the Borrowdale and Thirlmere valleys, it should, says AW, always be approached on foot. Which, in retrospect, I might agree with. But, I have to say, dropping back down to the hamlet at twilight, the tarn in reflective mood (as indeed I was) and not a soul around, was a magical end to the day.

My route took me up past Blea Tarn to the plateau of Ullscarf, the most central of the Lakeland fells. Well perhaps it’s not the most dramatic of terrain, but the broad north-south ridge is ideal for striding out on, and with the ground firm and dry as it was, and no other walkers in sight, I enjoyed these miles as much as any. At High Raise, the highest of the central fells – a magnificent viewpoint and worth a good pause – I retraced steps north to the col and descended Greenup Gill to Stonethwaite Beck. The charming valley path – the route of the Cumbria Way – led me towards Rosthwaite from where I headed back uphill over the pass to Watendlath. If Watendlath was a revelation the glorious views – of Borrowdale and Cumbria’s highest hills – from this path were quite sublime. That mile or so to the pass perhaps should be walked backwards. (Something I don’t actually recommend having once broken a wrist doing so elsewhere!)

“Watendlath is always left with regret” concludes AW, and so it was, but after a near-blissful day during which I’d encountered only three other walkers.

Distance: 10.5 miles/17km Ascent: 2624ft/800m Time: 5-7 hours Start/finish: Watendlath car park (GR: NY 276164) Maps: Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 90 (Penrith & Keswick) Information: Keswick TIC, 01768 772645

Technical Spec
From Watendlath head uphill to the east along a path that then bears S/SE to reach Blea Tarn. Beyond the tarn S up to Standing Crag and on to Ullscarf and along ridge via Greenup Edge to col. Continue in same direction to High Raise, retrace steps to col and descend NW down Greenup Gill to Stonethwaite Beck. Head along valley towards Rosthwaite bearing R at a footpath that cuts the corner soon joining the bridleway route that ascends from Rosthwaite. Carry on up this to the modest pass and down other side back to Watendlath.