Words & Photos Jamie Smith

July 01 2010

Soaring temperatures meant an early start, greeted by fine drizzle and extremely humid conditions. But I stuffed my Páramo into my pack and resolved not to allow the changeable conditions to get the better of me.

For once the postive thinking worked, and the morning mists soon gave way to sunshine and warm hazy skies.

The air was still but alive with a chorus of birdsong, the trees motionless. I walked through dripping wet undergrowth, my footfall soft on the damp floor. Dreamy thoughts ran through my head, quickly giving way to concentration and map work. With a network of little tracks shooting off this way and that, it would be easy to end up scurrying around in circles.

I eventually entered a walled path, leading to open moor and a bridleway that crossed the busy A628, collecting the Snow Road at the other side. I had expected a less than enjoyable passage along this track, but in truth I hardly noticed the traffic, hidden away as I was from the Pennine highway. I enjoyed distant views to my right in the direction of Holmfirth and i wasn’t long before the deeply cut 4x4 tracks were left behind, as I recrossed the trans-Pennine route, leaving civilisation and heading over the fells.

It’s thought that Lady Cross dates to the 13th century, marking the boundary of the medieval monastic land around Glossop. All that remains is a small part of the shaft and its base: blink and you’ll miss it. Over Round Hill, a summit that’s also easily missed, I found myself gazing along the horizon, enjoying a solitary existence – unusual in a National Park that attracts so many visitors.

A tiny cairn marked my arrival on Howden Edge. Upwards the sky, previously overcast, was showing glimpses of improvement – breaks were appearing, the drizzle dispersed, while a steady breeze gave comfort in the humidity.

Crossing peat groughs, which in the main were dry, the going was easy, apart from the occasional moment of uncertainty when suddenly the crusty layer of dry peat became a foot or two of deep, soggy black glue. Horse Stone Naze proved to be a stunning lunch stop, before I contoured round to the gloriously named rocky outcrops of Rocking Stones and Crow Stones. Still the crowds were nowhere to be seen – isolation and solitude proved to be the ideal tonic.

I soon reached the Cut Gate Path, a very distinctive but highly eroded route that led me steadily back towards the Langsett valley. Lush green moors filled the view, glimpses of pink heather starting to show signs of fighting with the bracken. In full bloom the vibrant colours are breathtaking. I couldn’t help thinking that autumn and winter would rival the scene though. Contemplating a return later in the year, I marched downhill.

Distance: 13 miles/21km Ascent: 1476ft/450m Time: 7–8 hours Start/finish: Car park on A161 NW of Langsett (GR: SE 201011) Maps: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer Sheet OL1 (Peak District – Dark Peak Area), Harveys/BMC 1:40,000 British Mountain Map, Dark Peak Information: Fairholmes, 01433 650953 Travel: www.yorkshiretravel.net

Technical Spec
Cross A616. Head W through wood along bridleway to Swinden (avoiding turns on left) to meet Swinden Lane (Track) signed to Bordhill. On reaching end of walled track, head N to meet A628. Turn L along road, passing pub, then cross and take take Snow Road SW. Recross A628 at SK 155002. Follow path to Lady Cross, then S to Round Hill and Featherbed Moss. On reaching Howden Edge path turn L, but when convenient leave to head SE across peat groughs for Horse Stone Naze. Leave the Naze on path NE to eventually cross Stainery Clough and continue on path to Rocking Stones, Crow Stones, Bull Stones and onto Cut Gate Path. Turn left and follow clear path north for around 5km to reach bridge. Cross and climb up track, bearing left then following to junction with earlier track.