Words & Photos Jamie Smith

December 01 2009

Visibility was bad and the ground soaked through. A typical late autumn British day. The intention had been to head for the depths of the Derwent fells, but not with the weather as it was. A change of plan took me to the line of Edges that would offer little navigational trouble and hopefully drier feet.

A gradual climb along a grassy slope soon lead to wooded confines alive with a chorus of birdsong, deep beneath craggy Gardom’s Edge. Descending to cross the A621, a quite delightful path took me through further woods, regaining lost height to be deposited on the open land of Baslow Edge. I made a quick detour to visit Wellington’s Monument.

Next was the Eagle Stone, a huge block of gritstone which, according to tradition would be climbed by the young men of Baslow to prove they were fit for marriage. High in the sky above me, I witnessed what proved to be the first of many geese, attempting to make headway in brisk winds which had engulfed the Peak. They sounded like squabbling couples, heading in one direction, only to change their minds and go off in another.

I crossed Curber and Frogatt Edges with no difficulty at all, over solid and firm rock. Down below, the valley was lost, engulfed in a thick, grey smog of mist and cloud. I had to use a combination of memory and imagination to conjure up the view I knew was there.

With no let-up in the weather, I passed the Grouse Inn en route to reach White Edge, increasing winds and heavier rain making for a quick march along a rather open and bleak scene while I took care not to be blown into the murky drops below. I eventually passed a trig point, signalling that soon a course along less distinct paths would be taken, descending gently to re-cross the A621, and heading off for Birchen Edge.

The early stages here are on open moorland, which even during dry weather is boggy. With the fallen rain this became emphasised, and I had to make detours around the worst of it. I reached the early stages of a wood, where a large boulder was my signal to ascend onto Birchen Edge, and a stiff climb swiftly had me standing by another trig point.

Following the Edge, again with care to avoid considerable drops to the right, I passed Nelson’s Monument, erected in 1810 to honour victory at the Battle of Trafalgar. On the left were three huge boulders known as the Three Ships, inscribed with the names Victory, Royal Soverin and Defiance. But soon I left the Edge, by a quick but steep passage to the paths below and a return to the drier confines of the car.

Distance: 10.5 miles/17km Ascent: 500m/1640ft Time: 6-7 hours Start/finish: Car park by Robin Hood pub (GR: SK 281 721) Map: OS Explorer sheet OL24 (Peak District - White Peak Area), Harvey British Mountain Map, Dark Peak Information: Bakewell, 01629 816558 Travel: 170 bus runs from Chesterfield to Baslow

Technical Spec
West on A619 to reach path NW passing beneath Gardom’s Edge. Reach and cross A621, continue on path crossing Bar Brook via bridge to gain height. Path turns W to meet track. Turn R, head E to monument. N past Eagle Stone to reach road, cross and take path along top of Curber Edge, leading to Froggatt Edge, continuing to road. Cross and descend steps on path to cross stream and climb up to car park. Take path N to find gate on right, path NE to Grouse Inn. Head N short distance on road and cross to take path across fields E for White Edge Moor, turning R on path to eventually reach crossroads. Turn R, head S on White Edge to reach roadside and crossroads at A621. Cross and take path on right, S for Birchen Edge to locate path climbing to top of Edge. Continue S passing Nelson’s Monument and Three Ships. Follow path S on edge, to eventually descend steep path beneath Edge. Turn L to reach road, turn R back to start point.