Words & Photos Jamie Smith

February 01 2010

Winter had arrived with a vengeance, bringing icy cold mornings, a covering of snow on the higher ground, and frost turning the whole of the Peak into a carpet of white. Mist could be seen covering the valley floor, while the motionless waters of Ladybower Reservoir reflected the early morning skies.

A brisk start soon brought warmth to frozen bones, heading through a small plantation and onto the slopes of Whinstone Lee Tor. The ground was solid and the air crisp as we took in a delightful view of the Derwent Valley. On the horizon, the distant slopes of Bleaklow and Kinder Scout still held on to their early snow.

The Hurkling Stones is one of the many rocky outcrops that stand, eroded and weathered, scattered along the Peak District edges. Here I paused to take in the atmosphere before the next leg of the journey saw me heading for Moscar, leaving the ridge via an iced path. Care was required on the descent as I headed for the A57, then a short walk beside this busy Pennine route planted me at the start of the path leading to Stanage Edge. Again the terrain was frozen hard, and a strong wind had developed, adding to the chill. Progress had been slow due to the ice, but a crossing of Moscar and Bamford Moors promised to be less problematic.

Wandering beneath Stanage Edge, it was hard to resist pausing occasionally to observe the many groups of climbers making their assault on crags with varying degrees of severity. One clung by fingertips, attempting an awkward overhang; another, thwarting danger without rope, scurried up a boulder of lesser difficulty. All along, the clinking of carabineers rang out as I passed.

The path over Bamford Moor took a little finding, but the soft ground had succumbed to the cold and gave a solid crossing, passing a line of old stone posts, the fence itself long gone.

Reaching the sheer cliffs of Bamford Edge, jaw-dropping views filled my delighted eyes – the unmissable Win Hill, and the cold depths of Ladybower shining in dappled light. Feasting on the stunning scenery, I followed the line of crags north in search of what must be one of the most stunning descents I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying in the Peak: fading light, frosted trees and a deeply cut path – like something from Lord of the Rings or Harry Potter.

This hidden gem of a route soon deposited me back in real time, passing through a small plantation to reach the roadside in late afternoon light. My mind was filled with wonderful scenes and I somehow felt my camera was as eager as I was to download its array of views.

Distance: 9.5 miles/15km Ascent: 450m/1480ft Time: 6-7 hours Start/finish: Layby at GR: SK 197 864 Maps: Harvey’s British Mountain Map, Dark Peak; Harvey Superwalker, Dark Peak; Ordnance Survey 1:25 000 Explorer sheet OL1 (Peak District – Dark Peak Area) Information: Castleton, 01433 620679 Travel: Buses 273 and 274 between Castleton and Chesterfield

Technical Spec
W along A57, turn right onto small slip road and follow round, bending right and uphill past houses. Continue heading E to reach path for Whinstone Lee Tor. Follow through plantation and climb to summit. Head NE passing Hurkling Stones to crossroads of paths. Turn right, head E for Moscar to reach road that runs to the Strines. Turn right and in short distance turn left onto A57. Cross road and head E for Moscars Flats to reach path on right for Stanage Edge. Head S. On reaching junction take path beneath Edge to cross Bamford Moor. Path leads to Bamford Edge, turning N to follow edge. Path reaches a junction; turn left and head S downhill to SK 204 853 where path crosses stream and wire fence into woods, following direction of overhead cables, eventually leading to roadside. Head N on road back to start point.