Words & Photos Dennis Kelsall

June 01 2010

The narrow waist of the southern Pennines between Yorkshire and Manchester can hardly be called beautiful, yet the stark moorland hills, crumbling edges and deep cloughs provide an impressive and challenging first stage to the Pennine Way.

My day began against its normal flow, heading south across the moor towards Black Hill, the third highest top within the Peak National Park. Here paved to resist the thousands of feet tramping the National Trail each year, the path forges a Roman road straightness across the catchment of Marsden Clough before swinging onto a direct assault. But the pull is brief and gives way to an enjoyable stride across the airy plateau, the summit trig somehow managing to remain hidden until you’re quite close. I was surprised to be alone on such a good day, and settled beneath the pillar to enjoy the distant view.

The most obvious landmark is the Holme Moss mast, which, contrary to the OS map description, no longer transmits TV signals. Those come from Emley Moor, some eight miles to the 
north-east. The country’s tallest 
free-standing structure and grade II listed, it replaces an earlier tower blown down in a storm – normal service was, no doubt, resumed as soon as possible.

The next couple of miles follow the original course of the Pennine Way north west across the moss, which at best is a faint rough trod. In murky weather, despite the odd cairn and rotting wooden waymark, you’ll need to get out the compass, but I was able to spot its line from the edge of the plateau. My navigation was spot on and I met the main road by a derelict quarry, some 350 yards east of a small parking area where a couple sat in a car eating fish and chips reminded me it was lunch time. But the road was no place to linger and I pushed on, expecting another claggy path. However the National Trust has flagged the boggiest sections, and I soon found a dry spot beneath a peat hag where the only disturbance was an inquisitive sheep intent on my sandwich.

Reaching the Black Moss reservoirs, I turned east, the path drawn along the developing fold of Blakely Clough into the Wessenden valley. I lingered again to enjoy the view along the Blakeley Reservoir, before taking a winding path around the hillside to the Wessenden dam. Back with the new Pennine Way, the final leg through the confines of the valley revealed a much more intimate side to the landscape. Although I’d enjoyed the exhilarating moorland yomp of the old route, this too had its charm and made a pleasant end to the walk, despite being all uphill!

Distance: 10 miles/16km Ascent: 1560ft/475m Time: 4-5 hours Start/finish: Wessenden Head (GR: SE 077076) Map: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL1 (The Peak District Dark Peak); Harvey/BMC 1:40,000 British Mountain Map, Dark Peak Information: Huddersfield, 01484 223 200 Travel: No convenient public transport. Traveline: 0871 200 22 33, www.traveline.org.uk

Technical Spec
Walk down to main road. Turn R and cross to Pennine Way. Good path leads SSE across the headstreams of Marsden Clough before swinging round above the upper reaches of Hey Clough onto Black Hill. At trig, strike NW for 2 miles across rough ground above catchment of Holme Clough. Reaching A635, go left to parking area, there picking up path to Black Moss Reservoir. Veer E, descending with Blakely Clough towards the Wessenden valley. Wind around adjacent clough to cross main valley on the Wessenden dam. Follow Pennine Way up past Wessenden Head Reservoir and back to start.