Words & Photos Vivienne Crow

September 21 2011

It's not every day you find an accident victim on the fells, but that’s exactly what I thought I’d stumbled across when I saw a woman curled up in a gully just below Great Dun Fell early one morning. My walking companion and I had spent
the previous night at Greg’s Hut. I’ve never been one to rush walks, so when we were late in setting out on our planned 19-mile tramp across the highest of the Pennines, I thought I’d use the delay to our advantage and split the excursion in two.

Greg’s Hut is almost seven miles from Garrigill along an old mining track that winds its way very slowly uphill, forming part of the Pennine Way. The bothy, a former lead mining building, was restored in memory of John Gregory, who died in a climbing accident in 1968. As the sun dipped down behind the mountains, leaving us in the cold, dark shadow of the ridge just above us, we got a fleeting taste of how bleak it must have been for the 19th century miners as they laboured on these lonely moors so far from civilisation, not seeing their homes or their families for weeks on end.

We were up before first light the next day, wanting to greet the dawn from Cross Fell’s summit. We bounced along on the springy moss as we made our way to the top, pausing en route to fill our water bottles from the refreshing well on Cross Fell’s northern slopes. The labouring sun slowly won its battle to pierce the haze, creating a golden mistiness across the cool fell-tops. A group of four dotterel, a rare treat in England and seemingly oblivious to our presence, were picking at the ground, searching for breakfast. With not a breath of wind, their soft ‘pip-pipping’ was the only sound to break the silence.

The early start meant we had the short section of ridge between Cross Fell and the ‘golf ball’ on Great Dun Fell to ourselves – until, that is, I saw the ‘body’ in the gully… I quickened my pace, thinking that the person might need help, although as I got closer and saw how still she was, I feared that it might be too late. Practically running now and with my heart racing, I came to a halt a few yards from the body. With her boots placed neatly beside her and a flask sitting on top of her Sunday paper, it was clear that this ‘victim’ was extremely comfortable. I decided not to wake her and gently backed away.

A little later, as we followed Trout Beck down to where it joins the Tees, we passed two other walkers, the first people we’d seen during our two days on the fells – apart from the sleeper, of course. “Are you Mrs Henderson?” asked one
of the men. I shook my head. His companion explained that they were members of the Teesdale and Weardale Search and Mountain Rescue Team and they were taking part in an exercise. “We’re looking for a female walker out
by herself.” The penny dropped. I explained where the sleeping ‘victim’ was and the rescuers went on their way.

We came across the rest of the team when we reached the Tees. “Are you the walkers who helped our guys find Mrs Henderson?” asked one of them. We nodded. “They just wanted to say thank you,” he said, waving his radio at me. “They’ve found her and are making their way off the fell.” Always glad to be of assistance.

Distance: 31km/19miles Ascent: 905m /2970ft Time: Two days Start/Finish: Garrigill, near Alston (GR: NY 745416) Map: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL31 (North Pennines) Tourist Information: Alston Moor, 01434 382244 Public Transport: Nearest buses to Nenthead (Traveline: 0871 200 22 33, www.traveline.info)

Technical Spec
From Garrigill, follow Pennine Way SW. Bear right when track forks as it enters disused mine workings. Vehicle track goes as far as Greg’s Hut but stony bridleway continues around back of bothy. Turn left (SSE) at stone shelters and climb to Cross Fell’s trig point. Continue SE along ridge, over Little Dun Fell and to left of radar station on Great Dun Fell. Cross steep-sided hush and follow it downhill to stony track. Turn left and follow beck to confluence with River Tees. Cross Tees, go through gate and swing left. Leave surfaced track at farm building close to bridge (GR NY759371). Follow South Tyne Trail waymarkers and stiles along east bank of river as far as Windshaw Bridge. Cross South Tyne and follow track to buildings. Turn right along road to walk back into Garrigill.