Words & Photos Paul Richardson

September 01 2010

Bilsdale appears out of proportion in that it’s a really wide valley with a really small river that looks like it could never have had the oomph to carve its way through the moorland on this scale.

This is for good reason – it didn’t. At the end of the last Ice Age, meltwater from a glacial lake overflowed and created Bilsdale, with today’s river simply following the route of the valley.

My plan was to complete a circuit of Bilsdale, taking in the moorland to the east and west, with a few hopefully secluded dales en-route.

Having made the steady climb up Black Intake I decided to avoid the grouse shooting track and make my way down into Tripsdale slightly to the north of the main path. The clamber down was quite steep and slow but the peaty waters of Tripsdale Beck looked very appealing as I struggled through the tight heather.

As I headed for a small gap in the heather, I suddenly spotted an adder, taking in the morning sun and cautiously watching my every move. It dawned on me that I knew nothing about adder bites or how to treat them, and I made myself a promise to do some research when I got home. Thankfully my slithery friend eased his way out of view soon enough.

Tripsdale, with its idyllic stream, is a wonderfully tranquil spot where you feel much further away from civilisation than you actually are and it was with a sense of reluctance that I left it behind so quickly as I climbed out onto Hagg House Moor.

I had my second encounter with wildlife as I headed south along Bransdale Ridge, overlooking the valley of Bransdale.A bird watcher let me know that I wasn’t welcome in these parts – they had been watching two ring ouzels apparently, until I had the audacity to show up. I’d been happier in the company of the adder

The track leading away from Bransdale towards Fangdale Beck made the perfect spot to enjoy some lunch, taking in the complete silence and perfect walking weather, something I hadn’t experienced on my last few trips into the hills.

The small hamlet of Fangdale Beck, with its old green telephone box, was strangely deserted as I climbed towards Wetherhouse Moor. This is a fabulous area of open moorland but is dominated by a TV mast that stands just over 1,000 feet high. Today it appeared not to get any closer as I walked towards it for over an hour and it seemed an age before I was beyond it.

The early evening sun was bathing Bilsdale in a golden glow as I dropped down from Bilsdale West Moor, back to Chop Gate. It had been a great day but it was still an enormous pleasure to take my boots off, drink warm orange juice and look forward to some more serious refreshment later.

Distance: 12 miles/20km Ascent: 2180ft/660m Time: 7 hours Start/finish: Chop Gate (GR: SE 559994) Map: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL26 (North York Moors, Western Area) Information: Helmsley TIC, 01439 770173 Travel: There is a Moorsbus Service M2 to Chop Gate, from Helmsley and Stokesley Tel: 01845 597000; website: www.northyorkmoors.org.uk

Technical Spec
From car park, cross road and take footpath uphill to William Beck Farm. Continue E through Tripsdale and Slape Wath Moor before heading S along Bransdale Ridge. After 20m on road, head SW across moorland, taking path just N of High Crossesett Farm before dropping into Fangdale Beck. Through village then W uphill and then N around back of mast. Continue N until woods at Trennett Bank, then NE downhill to Chop Gate.