Words & Photos Paul Richardson

December 06 2010

When the heather that covers much of the North Yorkshire Moors is not in flower and the brown twiggy plants form a dark matting, it is very tempting to think of these moors as barren.

But if you take your time and keep your senses alert, it soon becomes obvious that these moorlands are teeming with wildlife – it’s just usually very good at avoiding us.

It was a muggy and overcast day as I descended from Burn Howe Dale into the still air of the valley bottom near an area known as The Island. This is a tranquil and scenic river valley, although not the easiest to navigate through. Defined tracks seemed to come to a halt after 50 metres or so, before a wander across the bogs brought me to another path – which also gave up the ghost, after another 50 metres! The stop-start path pattern continued, occasionally frustrating but well worth the effort when a roe deer crossed the track immediately ahead of me.

I was left with pangs of jealousy as the deer bounded with incredible ease across the bogs that had seen me almost grind to a halt, before it leaped over a stone wall and disappeared into the distance.

Happily, the going became easier and the route better defined, allowing me to make good progress along the edge of, and then through, Ling Hill Plantation before crossing the moorland along Biller Howe Dale Slack. About halfway across this open section, I caught a glimpse of a common lizard, although it didn’t take it long to scamper off to find cover in the heather.

The Robin Hood’s Bay Path took me south past the Newton House Plantation. As I reached the comparative high ground near Lilla Cross, I could suddenly see right across the moors in every direction. From here, the Fylingdales early warning station looked suitably menacing as it shimmered through the hazy atmosphere. Good to know they’re on our side.

I shared the track with a frog and a couple more lizards after turning east towards High Moor, before I found myself heavily outnumbered by green tiger beetles. These attractive insects (not so attractive to creatures smaller than themselves) are quite common in this terrain but I’d never seen them in these numbers before, and I was careful not to tread on any as I made my way across Fylingdales Moor.

The haze that had been in the atmosphere all day began to clear as I looked across Jugger Howe Beck’s deep valley. I took the time for a drink stop to make the best of the evening light in such a peaceful setting before descending to the stream below. A steady climb back onto Burn Howe Dale put me back on the last leg of a route that had reminded me just how many residents there are out in the moors – even if we don’t always know that they’re there.

Distance: 10.5 miles/17km Ascent: 1200ft/365m Time: 5-6 hours Start/finish: Car parking off A171 Scarborough to Whitby road, 1 mile NW of Helwath Road (GR: NZ 945003) Map: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL27 (North York Moors – Eastern area) Information: Whitby TIC, 01723 383637 Travel: Arriva bus service 93 (Traveline: 0871 200 2233; www.arrivabus.co.uk)

Technical Spec
From car parking area, over stile then follow track SW along Burn Howe Dale. At Jugger Howe Beck cross footbridge then keep stream on your R. Track is undefined around Brown Rigg so keep near wall to Billira Cottage. Track leads around then through Ling Hill Plantation before heading W towards Newton House Plantation. Turn onto path leading S to Lilla Cross. Take track to the L across open moors then keep to main track heading E. Drop back down to Jugger Howe Beck footbridge and path back to car park.