Words & Photos Ian Battersby

March 01 2010

Unremitting blizzards had harried the eastern Pennines for several days, but heading for the higher mountains further west I hoped to find enough snow to lend the land that fresh, untamed, wintry feel.

To make the most of it I devised a route that would include two of Yorkshire’s Three Peaks: Ingleborough and Whernside. There’s an obvious path that climbs the north-east ridge of Ingleborough that’s much neglected by walkers in favour of handier rights of way. It’s the key to a walk that unlocks two of the most recognisable mountains of the Dales, in an outing that’s perfect for these shorter days.

In this south-western corner of the national park, snow cover was down to a couple of inches, but that was enough to dress the hills in winter’s best bib and tucker. Progress through the dry powder was easy too, and I was soon revelling in this transient treat from the trig point perched on Park Fell. Pen-y-ghent stood shoulder to shoulder with Fountains Fell, and Ingleborough’s bright brow beamed over the top of Simons Fell. Whernside showed off its lengthy flank, while graceful Howgill curves seduced the eye from afar.

I sifted through snow, dodging drifts gathered by walls, and strayed onto Simons Fell before tackling the steep defences of Ingleborough. Here I met the footprints of those lucky devils who’d been out the previous days, frolicking like kids in a playground. The snow had been stamped into ice, and I drew my axe out to lend a hand. There were others around me now, some struggling to keep their footing, yet my axe was the only one in sight.

Everyone made it to the hill fort remains on Ingleborough’s flat summit without incident. I did my usual round of the ramparts, from where I could see the greenery of the lowlands beyond the Craven fault, before descending zigzag style to avoid that ice. More fun followed as I dropped towards Southerscales. The first part of the descent is extremely steep and crosses a stream whose banks were buried in deep snow. After retreating from a first attempt at descending the steep frozen snow to the side I ended up using the stream, like the owners of footprints before me had done.

Whernside presented no such difficulties. Snow cover was sparse, and icy areas more easily worked around. The Howgills caught my eye from the top again, but then cloud moved in, destroying any hope of viewing their snowy flanks in the glow of sunset. The descent along the iced-up flags was less easy, but the exquisitely crafted curves of Little Dale Beck came quickly enough, followed by those of the towering viaduct, dark against a ghostly landscape of winter white.

Distance: 13 miles/21km Ascent: 3300ft/1000m Time: 7-8 hours Start/finish: Ribblehead (GR: SD 764791) Maps: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL2 (Yorkshire Dales – Southern & Western areas); Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 98 (Wensleydale & Upper Wharfedale); Harvey Maps 1:25,000 Superwalker, Yorkshire Dales Information: Settle, 01729 825192 Travel: Trains on Leeds-Settle-Carlisle line. Traveline: 0871 2002233, www.traveline.org.uk

Technical Spec
B6479 SE for 1km. S to Colt Park farm then SW climbing Park Fell, Simon Fell and Ingleborough. Return to stile below Ingleborough. Path steep down heading N past Braithwaite Wife Hole to Old Hill Inn at Chapel-le-Dale. B6255 SW for 200m. Lane N to Bruntscar Farm. Path NNW to gain ridge of Whernside. NNE to summit. Continue N, soon turning E and later SW towards viaduct. Follow track back round to SE by Ribblehead Viaduct to start.