Words & Photos Paul Richardson

November 01 2009

There’s no mistaking the scarred and often surreal landscape of Swaledale, 
pock-marked with the remains of long quiet mine workings. Despite, or maybe even because of this, Swaledale is one of my favourite areas. The hills are craggy, bleak and steeped in history, and the disused tips and smelting chimneys make it stand apart from the rest of the Dales.

The climb out of Gunnerside village uses a track that is also the driveway for a small number of houses built onto the hillside, and at some points it must be a one in three gradient. That’s a tricky drive in winter just to get onto the road, but I’m sure the benefits of life here offer sufficient compensation.

The steep ascent meant that I was soon crossing the heather moorland of Melbecks Moor, where the clear skies allowed me panoramic views across the surrounding moorland. Dropping down to Level House Bridge I passed a procession of 4x4s taking people onto the moor to shoot things. I was deeply relieved that I was heading the other way until I remembered that my return route would take me back across the same moor in a few hours’ time.

After crossing heather it felt good to get on to the firm track along Flincher Gill. Turning on to Forefield Rake creates an eerie feeling of suddenly walking into a lunar landscape, with the dull grey rock from the disused tips lying everywhere around the path. Looking in the mine shafts brought home what a desolate spot this must have been to work and what a dangerous job it would have been.

A clear track leading steadily downhill to the road completed the circuit of Reeth High Moor. This part of Swaledale has a fantastic network of bridleways and after seeing a couple of mountain bikers, I vowed to return soon with my bike.

My next section of path followed the valley alongside Old Gang Beck. Just after the Old Gang Smelting Mills, I was delighted to see that the 4x4s had retired from the hills and their occupants were now enjoying mugs of tea and sandwiches in the valley bottom, leaving my way clear for a hazard free return to Gunnerside.

It was a bit of a haul back onto the higher ground, the route back cutting between Melbecks Moor and Brownsey Moor. The weather began to change for the worse now, becoming misty and drizzly, but mercifully the return leg was across grassy moorland which made it easier to progress than the heather of the initial crossing. Nevertheless it was a bit of a slog across the plateau, the mist preventing any chance of soaking up the views. So it was a boost when the clag cleared just in time to spot Gunnerside below and it was a real bonus to find the café there still open.

Distance: 11 miles/18km Ascent: 1800ft/550m Time: 6-7 hours Start/finish: Gunnerside (GR: SD 952983) Map: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL30 (Yorkshire Dales Northern & Central areas); Harvey 1:40,000 Outdoor Map, Dales North Information: Reeth TIC, 01748 884059 Travel: Number 30 bus from Richmond runs Monday to Saturday

Technical Spec
From car park in Gunnerside go east on road for about 100m then through gate on left. Climb track, veering left to Whin Hall, then north across Melbecks Moor to Level House Bridge. Head north-west on Flincher Gill then on Forefield Rake before swinging south-east to road. Turn right on road and take track along Old Gang Beck, past Stone Pillars on right. Take tarmac track on left before crossing open moorland back to Gunnerside.