Words & Photos Ian Battersby

April 01 2010

The towering walls of a mediaeval fortress are the dramatic setting for the start of this Wensleydale wander. It bears the scars of history well, and today it’s still owned by a direct descendant of the original owner.

A stiff northerly was gusting rudely across the wide expanses of Wensleydale, and even here, partway up the stepped, northern ridges of the dale, there was little respite from its bite. It roared with displeasure through the boughs of towering trees, seeing off the ragged edges of an overnight blanket of cloud. I quickly found a brisk and warming pace along the terraces, as angling sunlight raked weakly across the land, highlighting modest ridges against some of the more stubborn pillows of angry grey. I dropped briefly below New Pasture, partly for shelter, and partly to increase the drama of the prospect over stone barns allied with walls that weave across the dale.

Climbing back into the tempest, I passed the desolate and abandoned quarry works beneath Ivy Scar. It’s an arresting scene, brightened up by the large pond whose icy waters reflected the dazzling blue of a cerulean ceiling. I marched on upwind to Heugh, and was glad of a brief breather in Askrigg, swilling butties down with a steaming flask outside the church, much to the approval of the locals. There’s a fine collection of pubs, a café and restaurant though if you prefer a little pampering.

Now came the lengthy stride back down the valley, which begins broad and 
flat-bottomed, but quickly changes in character as miniature hills rise all about, stone walls hurrying over them. My favourite is Lady Hill, upon which a small cluster of enduring conifers prevail, making an austere landmark within the dale. I feel great affection for this character-filled valley, and love to walk along its length. The calm waters of the sweeping blue river leant an air of peace, neutralising the tantrums of the bitter gale, which was thankfully behind me now. I could relax and enjoy the flocks of greylag geese grazing the grass or sheltering mid-stream, eyed through the skeletal branches of the trees that crowd the banks. Whenever they spotted me they’d take to the air, flying upwind, honking for reassurance over my head, then circle around to settle in fields beyond the opposite bank.

At Aysgarth Falls the mood reverted to violence as meltwater from the surrounding hills thundered into oblivion, a writhing mass of foam and spitting spray. It was just a temporary tantrum though. I climbed away from the falls, up the gentle slopes leading away from the disturbed river, and witnessed the synchronised setting of the sun with the rise of a giant moon. Briefly the castle was resplendent in gold, before the warm tones retreated over the hill leaving only the purple hues of dusk to guide me in.

Distance: 14.5 miles/23km Ascent: 1650ft/500m Time: 5-7 hours Start/finish: Castle Bolton (GR: SE 033918) Maps: Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 98 (Wensleydale & Upper Wharfedale); OS 1:25,000 Outdoor Leisure sheet OL30 (Yorkshire Dales – Northern & Central areas); Harveys 1:40,000 Outdoor Map, Dales North Information: Hawes, 01969 666210 Travel: Bus to Aysgarth (on route)

Technical Spec
Bridleway W then S for 4km towards Carperby. Bridleway W, passing below New Pasture en route to disused quarries below Ivy Scar. Continue NW to Heugh. Paths W passing Newbiggin to Askrigg. Lane S to church. Paths SE to River Ure, then NE to Nappa Mill. Paths following disused railway and river alternately for 5km to Aysgarth Upper Falls. Lane and path ENE passing Middle and Lower Falls. Paths NE passing Hollins Ho and High Thoresby to lane. Continue NE along lane to second bend. Path NE then lane N to Castle Bolton.