Words & Photos Andy Stothert

September 15 2011

Without wishing to upset those good folk who live on the eastern side of the Pennines, with the exception of Pen-y-ghent and Ingleborough, I can never get quite as excited about the hills in the Yorkshire Dales as those magnificent little mountains in the Lake District. I’m not saying that the walking or the scenery isn’t as good (I think I am really) just that it is different, and doesn’t do it for me. 

I’m digging an even bigger hole now, but I reckon the name of the Yorkshire Dales National Park hints quite strongly as to the assets of this area in the word ‘Dales’. For certain, the valleys hereabouts are endlessly beautiful. The most beautiful of the lot is Swaledale and in mid-June this could very well be one of the most amazing places on the whole of our astonishing little planet. 

What I’m proposing here is that on Wednesday the 15th of June 2011, or the nearest decent day possible, you all forsake the hills of the Lake District, the Highlands or anywhere else equipped with desirable lumps of rock, and go for a good look at Swaledale. It gets worse too, for I’m further advocating that a whole day is spent at or near floor level, with no sly sloping off onto a lump-top of any kind. I know this sounds like a ludicrous and potentially wellbeing-threatening proposition, but having survived the experience twice now (though only just this last time), I’m fairly confident most hillwalkers with any soul will get through it without suffering. 

Just in case you’ve recently arrived from Mars (or the South of England) the attraction, of course, is the floral explosion in the meadows of upper Swaledale. I read something recently which stated that within the last 40 years England has lost over 98% of its traditional hay meadows, and this could explain why the annual event in Swaledale is now such a rare sight, and worshipped so ardently by all who clap their eyes upon it. Last year wasn’t the most colourful there’s ever been, but it was still a sight for sore eyes, and I decided to inspect as much meadow as possible in a day by circumnavigating Kisdon at low level. Yes, the will did weaken, and the legs wandered off far too willingly into the deep and steep crevice of Swinner Gill, but otherwise the urge to charge off up the nearest hill was kept in check. 

For this and another higher day (up East Gill and then onto the desolate wastes of Rogan’s Seat) my basecamp was Park House Campsite, which is small and homely, but immersed in the vastness of the scenery just upstream of Keld. Which way the circuit is walked makes no odds really, but if photos of the meadows and barns are part of the agenda, then a lazy start and a clockwise direction will do the job best. 

Distance: 13km/8 miles Ascent: 350m/1150ft Time: 4 hours Start/finish: Park House Campsite, Keld (GR: NY 887015) Maps: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL30 (Yorkshire Dales - northern & central areas); BMC/Harveys 1:40,000 British Mountain Map, Yorkshire Dales Tourist information: Yorkshire Dales National Park 01969 666210 or www.yorkshiredales.org.uk Public transport: There is a regular but infrequent bus service from Richmond (number 30) which goes all the way up Swaledale to the campsite. Information from Traveline, 0871 200 22 33, www.traveline.org.uk

Technical Spec
From the campsite cross the river just upstream and find the bridleway above the north side of the river. Walk south-east for just over a mile, then take ascending path past Crackpot Hall to mining ruins at the top of Swinner Gill. Turn sharp right down Swinner Gill, cross gill then follow scenic path south down to Swaledale. After crossing the river continue south through those amazing meadows into Muker where you can pick up provisions if, like me, you are camping north of Keld. The path west then crosses more meadows to Usha Gap Farm, then take the path north-west then west over to Thwaite. A footpath north through two beautiful miles of meadows takes you to the road at Keld. Follow the road north to the campsite.