My favourite seasons here are spring and autumn, when the cliffs are resplendent in colour – from countless wild flowers to the rich hues of wilting bracken and turning leaves. Wildlife is everywhere too: countless seabirds nest upon the cliffs while fading summer brings the seal pups.
Although it’s been barely 40 years since the last of Afan’s mines closed, few traces remain of its once-massive industry. Encroaching vegetation mutes forbidding spoil heaps, pithead gear has been dismantled and the railways laid to transport the coal have long been grubbed up.
It was a finalist in the ITV series Britain’s Favourite View (the only nomination in Wales) three years ago and appears regularly in those ‘top 10’ lists beloved by papers. Having seen it with my own eyes for the first time recently I know now why. Three Cliffs Bay on the south Gower coast is, quite simply, captivating.
St Govan’s Head pokes squarely from the most southern part of Pembrokeshire. I recently rock-climbed one of its sheer limestone faces and admired the view seawards; the area is renowned as the most beautiful and wild in south Pembrokeshire, and deservedly.
The former quarry village of Rosebush once had aspirations to become a spa; my 1926 Blue Guide describes it as the nearest station to ‘Precelly Top’ and having a good inn.
After 40 days and 40 nights of snow (or so it seemed), they said the sun was going to show.
Isolated in the west of the Brecon Beacons National Park, Black Mountain is often described as its last wilderness. For a full taste of its glory, we decided to combine its 802m (2631ft) summit, Fan Bryncheiniog (the third highest top in South Wales) with the dramatic escarpment of Bannau Sir Gaer and the twin lakes they shelter: Llyn y Fan Fach and Llyn y Fan Fawr.
I looked upon Black Mountain with mixed feelings of hope and excitement, for I had visited twice before, and been denied the view, though on the second attempt, the cloud was rather sluggish in its descent upon the hill, and I did get a glimpse or two to entice me back. Was it going to be third time lucky?
The steep-faced and distinctively shaped outline of Pen y Fan dominates and epitomises the Brecon Beacons National Park. In a typical twist of mountain fate, Pen y Fan deserves and attracts crowds, who often link it with neighbouring second and third highest Brecon Beacons: Corn Du and Cribyn. In order to see all three to best effect, and to give their paths a rest, I suggest distance.
The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is, of course, famous for its coast path. However, look up and you’ll see the Park’s best kept secret: rugged, untracked hilltops. Ice Age rock formations, prehistoric archaeology and wild Welsh ponies amid gold and purple heather characterise the landscapes, and you’ll get spectacular 360-degree views of Pembrokeshire and its coast to boot.
Ask me where the most magnificent sites in Britain are and I’m likely to pull a few mountains out of the hat, but it was quite by accident that I stumbled upon this gem, while backpacking through Wales.
